Sunday, September 30, 2012

Liberty II

More progress today; the collar is attached.




I changed up the collar on this top mainly because I was a little short of fabric. The original collar is a cross between a Peter Pan and a mandarin (banded)  style, and the pattern piece for it is very curved. It's almost a circle shape. Not enough with the pieces remaining after cutting out the main pieces. Basically my version is a strip of fabric cut crossgrain and folded. After basting fabric the neckline and playing around with various looks, I decided on a mandarin style collar with a slight gap at center front.

I am terrible with tutorials because I forget to take pictures as I go. This time was no exception. I chalked the design line I wanted onto the basted collar, then removed it, added seam allowances to each end, and trimmed off the excess. I probably should have at least traced off a pattern piece for the future, but I didn't even get around to doing that. Oh well.

I also prepared the facings so they're ready to be attached. Then I pressed up the sleeve hems. It's a nice step to take before sewing up the sleeves because it's easier to press flat pieces. Then, once the sleeves are made, you can touch up the hem crease and be good to go.

Saturday, September 29, 2012

Liberty



I suppose I'm way behind the curve with this one, but I'm finally getting around to TSW's Liberty Shirt.      For this initial effort, I'm using a cotton fabric that's been in the stash for a number of years. It's probably a quilting fabric, but a higher quality one at least.

I found that the pattern took more fabric than indicated on the envelope, I have less fabric than originally thought* and I'm matching patterns, so I'm not using the collar piece from the envelope. Instead, I'm making a simple banded collar that I was able to eke out of some scraps that were left after cutting the main pieces.

I started sewing it this morning and so far, so good. The front and back pieces are sewn together and (mostly) hemmed. I am ready to start working on that collar next.

But time to stop for now. I have a football game this afternoon which is actually a work event. Our team won tickets to the UNM Lobos game as the result of a charity drive, so attendance is in order.

*Edited 10/23/12. Actually had less fabric than indicated on pattern!

Saturday, September 22, 2012

Here and There

I really meant it when I said I needed a vacation!

DH and I went to Pennsylvania/New Jersey right after Labor Day for a family wedding. It was at the microbrewery where the groom, our nephew, is the assistant brewmaster. We had a wonderful time hanging out with family and friends. I wore a jersey dress that I bought in Las Vegas a couple of years ago. It was perfect for travel, since it took minimal space in my small carry-on wheelie bag and didn't require any maintenance on arrival except being hung up. I must keep this in mind for future trips--knits are your friend!

After the wedding, we headed up to New Jersey to the inlaw's home in Bergen. SIL and I made a quick trip to Manhattan, where we mostly window shopped. I picked up a few few at Lord and Taylor's and Macy's. Not anything special, just wardrobe basics that will work nicely for fall. We also had lunch at Bryant Park. Since SIL is not a sewist, I didn't submit her to fabric shopping. Perhaps another time.

I still haven't done any sewing since coming back. I expect that will change as the weather changes. It's officially Fall! It's still quite warm here although we're experiencing little hints of seasonal change with cooler mornings and evenings.

I'm looking forward to Material Girls tomorrow and have a garment ready to lay out and cut. Our meetings are at a Bernina dealership, so there will be plenty of room to work. I may also bring some handwork. I have a couple more of the Coldwater Creek tops with necklines I'd like to repair. This time, I decided that a crochet edge might work nicely.

Thanks for all the nice comments about the silk shell! I've worn it to work once already and discovered that I have a RTW cardigan from Coldwater Creek that works perfectly with it. I think I will be using this pattern again and often. Now that I have the pattern worked out, it's a really fast sewing project and a perfect layering piece.

Also, thanks for the hairstyle comments! I've had the short bob for a while now, which evolves a bit with each cut. It's even shorter now especially in the back.

Monday, September 3, 2012

Vogue 7457 (OOP)--Completed


The top is done, and here I am actually wearing it in a photo. I'm sure the neighbors enjoy seeing me posing on the front porch with the tripod and self timer!

The pants are a pair of one-seams I made from TSW's Hudson Pant. These are full length instead of cropped like on the pattern. I made them from a black and cream pinstripe linen. Pretty fabric but wrinkle prone.

I had a question about making darts in a pattern like this for a busty person. I'm not small busted, but the full bust adjustment  (FBA for short) I made this time was a dartless version that gives more room in the chest and adjusts the lower front so it's more even across the lower edge. I may try this again in a darted version. I suspect I might like it a better, but then there's the issue of disrupting the print. There's always a trade off.

Sunday, September 2, 2012

Vogue 7457 (OOP): In Pursuit of Stash Busting

My latest project is a circa 2001 pattern that I made a couple of times back when I was in business banking.  I made Views B and C for various work outfits. The tunic was great on its own in over a pencil skirt, while the top worked well with suits. Just 2 pieces, front and back.



I've been looking for a simple pattern to make some tops from. My typical selection method involves picking several, pulling envelopes, reviewing,  then winnowing my choices down--and that's how I rediscovered this pattern. I decided to add an undarted FBA. I used Louise Cutting's video, Industry Insider Techniques Volume 4, and my trusty book, The Perfect Fit by Singer as my guides.  As a Threads Magazine "Insider", I was able to stream the video, but is also available to purchase as a DVD.  The Singer series is out of print, but if you happen to see this one at a used bookstore or a yard sale, grab it. I use it all the time. The fashion photos are dated but the step-by-step instructions, which are also in color, are very helpful. (I just looked at Amazon and learned that The Perfect Fit has been republished and is even available in a Kindle edition. Different cover, but the content looks the same.)

This version of the top is a prototype (aka "wearable muslin") that I cut from some free fabric that I acquired through a Material Girls giveaway.



One of the members of our group used to be the President of our local ASG chapter, and people kept calling her and offering stashes of fabrics and patterns. She took it since she had the space, and we had fundraisers with a lot of it. With still plenty of yardage left over, she started bringing it to Material Girls and giving it away. I have accumulated a lot of nice pieces this way. But since it was free, I figured that there was no reason to hoard it.

And that's why I'm making this top from a piece of stretch silk charmeuse. This stuff is like buttah, and has the added plus of not being overly shiny. It's also drapey yet more manageable than you'd expect. I wouldn't want to make something complex with it but it's great for a simple top like this.

I expect to finish it up later today, so I will try to post a photo once it's done.

By the way, I realize that it's been some time since I've posted, but August was a busy month with out of town visitors, vestry activities, and work "stuff." None of it bad, just time consuming. I am ready for a vacation!