Puerto Rico Wardrobe: Pattern Assessment

Holy shades of worklife, Batman!

Assessment is not a word I've used much since leaving The Big Red Bank last July, assessing and deploying being two of my former manager's most favorite phrases. However, assessment seems to be an appropriate term now since I used some new patterns for my vacation wardrobe.

As usual, I packed too much stuff. However, it all fit into a single wheeled carry-on so I suppose it's not a big deal. The excess gave me a margin for error, and there were some. But first, the new pattern  highlights of the week:

Loved, loved, loved the black linen TSW Hudson Pants! I wore these over and over again during the week. I made them straight off the pattern, and my only complaint is there were no pockets. Easy enough to change next time, though. I see this pattern as a nice basic that can be changed up in many ways--add various pockets, omit leg darts, lengthen, shorten, add tabs, etc. Best new pattern of the trip.

Butterick 5211, the fuschia chemise I struggled with so much. It was ok, although the boatneck was a little high in front. If I decide to make this again, I'll drop the neckline about an inch, an easy fix.

Butterick 5225, the print dress. I tried it on one night, but couldn't stand the way it looked so it didn't make it out of the room. A baggy sack that does me no favors. I love the fabric though, so I'll likely be remaking it as a casual summer skirt. If I decide that I want to play around with this styling in the future, I'll use my TNT nightgown pattern (Simplicity 9505) that's much more flattering.

Both the TSW Mixit Tank and Cutting Line Pure and Simple Shell performed well. I preferred the Mixit Tank though, due to the fabric. Umm, cotton lawn. Must get more. I'll definitely continue to use these patterns in the future.

Home, Home Again...

Back to New Mexico and normalcy after a week in Condado, San Juan, Puerto Rico! We had an oceanfront room in the Marriott, small but nice. And the view was hard to beat. This was the view from our balcony:

It was so nice to get away. The weather was perfect--consistently in the 80s and only a couple of sun showers. We didn't do as much sightseeing as we anticipated--I got some inner ear "thing" and spent Monday and Tuesday feeling a bit under the weather, so I mostly hung out by the pool. Yes, life is rough! ;) My equilibrium is still a little off but manageable. DH was ok with hanging out as he wanted to spend time relaxing and de-stressing from his job.

We did go to the Bacardi factory:

 And yes,  they gave samples after the tour.

We tried the Select version on the rocks. Wow, good stuff! It was aged for 8 years and was so smooth. A sipper, not a mixer.

Afterwards we visited the colonial fort in Old San Juan. It was enormous! Being there really helped me appreciate how important Puerto Rico was for the Spanish Empire.

We had some delicious meals while there, too! Unfortunately, it was all over too soon, and we had a long day of flying on Friday. Ugghh, making connections in Atlanta was no fun. We got in late Friday night and I still haven't finished unpacking even though I only brought a carry on roller bag and small backpack. Lack of motivation since those clothes aren't needed yet.

Puerto Rico Wardrobe, Butterick 5211 and 5225 (Part 8)

I finished this dress last night. It was fairly easy to sew but nowhere near the 2 hours claimed by Butterick. I've said my piece on this topic already. But let me assure you, the Fashion Express line is consistent, with instructions on this one as dumbed down as the last pattern. Of course, I made modifications that added time, such as a rayon challis lining to prevent show-through. But there's no way you can sew this up in 2 hours with all the pressing of drawstrings and casings involved.

In addition, I had to go back and re-sew the side seams. There is an incredible amount of ease in this pattern. While I usually at least consider the measurements printed on the pattern, I didn't for whatever reason this time. So I cut out a 14 based on my measurements and thentook out an additional 2 1/2"! This puts the size somewhere between a 10 and a 12. I could have cut out a straight size 10 (or even smaller) and it still would have been fine. This pattern recently went OOP, but really Butterick, what were you thinking?

Another change I made to the pattern was to eliminate the whole waist drawstring thing. I know how I am, and having a string tied around my waist would make me nuts. I'd always be playing with it, adjusting and re-tying again and again. So I inserted elastic instead and sewed a fake drawstring at center front. Simpler, faster, easier!

I also made a real hem instead of the 5/8" narrow hem specified. I had enough fabric since I'm shorter than BMV's fit model so it was easy enough to do.

Would I make this again? Possibly, but I'll consider making an 8. If I can work it out, it would be a fast little summer dress to have in my repertoire.

I also finished topstitching on Butterick 5211, so it's also complete. I used 2 strands of Coats and Clark poly embroidery thread through the needle and increased the stitch length, so that it would resemble the decorative embroidery that the fabric came with. I would have used Sulky, but the CC was a better color match.

Now that the 2 dresses are finished, the Puerto Rico wardrobe is complete in time for tomorrow's departure. Here are the rest, the tops and the cropped pants:

Arggh, what a goofy set of pictures. I was in a hurry this morning, so didn't really get it together as I should have. Oh well.

Anyway,  5 garments this month, which amazes me! True, they're simple pieces but I can't remember when I've been this prolific in such a short period. And no, I didn't spend all my time in the sewing cave.

Puerto Rico Wardrobe, Butterick 5211 and 5225 (Part 7)

I decided to go ahead and make this dress in spite of receiving a warning about it. The chemise style appealed to me as something comfortable for vacation wear. I chose the embroidered fuschia linen-look I recently bought at Hancock's:

However, I tweaked the pattern as a result, and I think the changes improved it a lot. In addition to my usual habit of cutting the neck and shoulders size 10 and the rest size 14, I did the following: added a FBA, decreased the width of the neckline opening, eliminated the center back seam and neck opening, and pegged the lower edge.  A lot of changes to a simple dress, but needed since I'm not built like a coat hanger (yay!).

And I eliminated the inseam pockets. In a chemise dress? Really? IMO, nothing but a source of distortion waiting to happen.

I also added a facing and lining combination to protect the back side of the embroidery from snags. I also think a lining generally improves the way a garment hangs and wears. In addition to the neckline, the lining is attached at the sleeve edges but the rest hangs free. The lining is plain rayon challis, which is also in the picture above.

Overall, I'm pleased although I think labeling the dress with a "1 Hour" label was totally misleading. Granted, the label refers only to sewing time, but it leads inexperienced sewists astray as they equate "fast" with "easy." The pattern instructions leave out several steps that would result in a better finished garment, such as staystitching the neckline, underlining the neck facing, and reinforcing the curved underarm seams that have to be severely clipped to lay flat. The pattern also referenced markings that didn't exist.  I've got years and years of sewing experience under my belt, so I wasn't phased by these omissions. I really have no problem calling this a "Fast and Easy" or "Fashion Express" pattern, but dumbing down instructions to make them fit an artificially short sewing time ends up frustrating and discouraging inexperienced sewers who may not realize that extra steps are needed to obtain the best results.

No pictures yet, because I still need to complete the final step of topstitching the neck and sleeve edges. I'm going to see if I can locate some rayon thread that'll match the decorative embroidery on the fabric. It'll look better as a finish than plain sewing thread.

Meanwhile, I started cutting out the next project for the Puerto Rico Wardrobe, the Butterick 5225 dress. This one is another Fashion Express pattern with a "2 Hour" estimate. I dunno, it looks very simple, but I already know to take the guidesheet with a generous grain of salt!

I'm using this rayon print:

Puerto Rico Wardrobe, TSW Hudson Pants (Part 6)

Well, that was quick! I finished the pants yesterday from start to finish. For this project, I used some JoAnn's linen that was left over from TSW Trio Pants I made a couple of years ago.  They're a cute cropped length and will go well with the other items I'm packing. I realize a hanger shot isn't the best. However, I'm still in winter mode here--in other words, no pale, dry, unshaven legs will be displayed, so this will have to do. I lightened to show detail but in real life, the color is dark black.

I made a size Small based on a comparison of flat pattern measurements with a TNT, TSW's Urban Pant. I could probably use another 1/2" or so of ease and may yet alter them, but they're wearable as-is. I definitely think the Medium would have been too baggy for my tastes.

I'll be making more of these when the weather warms up. A nice basic that will lend itself to plenty of variations.

Puerto Rico Wardrobe, TSW Mixit Tank & CLD Pure and Simple Shell (Part 5)

Woo hoo, I completed the first sewn item for the Puerto Rico Wardrobe Saturday afternoon! This is the Sewing Workshop Mixit Tank that I've already a couple of other times: a green linen one that was basically a wearable muslin and a fuschia cotton/linen one that was modified by shortening it through the bodice body to create a flared silhouette.

I used a wonderful piece of cotton lawn that I bought from Louise Cutting a couple of years ago for this version. Beautiful stuff, very soft, very thin, semi-sheer.

I had tweaked the pattern slightly after making the green one--lowered the neckline a touch and narrowed the front armscye by removing a tiny wedge at the top of the side seam. I used the same version this time, except shortened by 3" since I'm short waisted. I plan to make any future versions this length as well.

I also completed the second item last night after the Super Bowl--the Pure and Simple Shell by Louise Cutting's Cutting Line Designs.

I've also made this pattern before, so it went together relatively quickly. It would have been faster but I decided to use silk organza for the facings as I was worried about shadowing. The sheer organza was great for that--it virtually disappeared behind the white linen and was firm enough that I could eliminate interfacing. However, it became tempermental when turning the edges, especially on the neckline. But I was able to Make It Work, and I'm pleased with the finished result.

Here's a detail shot of the shell's reverse side, showing the organza facing:

Oh and speaking of shadowing, I experimented with the rayon print's lining this morning. The photo below shows the print fabric folded with white challis in between.

I'll throw the combination over Ms. Acme today for further consideration, but I think the combination of the two fabrics will work well.

We're leaving in less than two weeks for vacation. At this pace, I might be able to get three more garments done but I don't plan to kill myself like I did for the wedding and Kauai. My plan is to take a rest from brightly colored semi sheer prints and make the black linen TSW Hudson pants next, then the dresses. I have a TNT for one of them, the Hearts Fluttering in Vogue morph and I'm still figuring out the other.

Puerto Rico Wardrobe, Part 4

This is the part where I go fabric shopping.

I had hoped to get through this project with stash and existing RTW, with the exception of shoes of course.

After yesterday's post, I decided that I needed something like a lightweight batiste for a lining, so I added JoAnn's to my list of stops on yesterday's expedition. It's been incredibly cold here but by afternoon, it was sunny with temperatures in the 20's. What could go wrong?

Well, I drove to JoAnn's and it was closed. Handwritten signs on all the doors stating they were shut down for at least two days. Condensation on the windows--oh, oh. Looks like somebody had a roof leak or burst pipe. Fortunately, there's a Hancock's down the street!

No batiste to be had, but they did have plain rayon challis. Unfortunately only 2 1/4 yards of white, so I couldn't stock up for spring and summer on this trip. Oh well, maybe I can find more at the other Hancocks if I can get over there soon.

Anyway, I got to thinking about the rayon print I posted. While it's beautiful, maybe it's more suitable for something else like a flowy skirt or a top. I could underline the pieces, but it's better not to force the fabric to behave too much against its nature. Over to the linen section, where I found this fuschia embellished linen-like rayon poly blend (how's that for a description?).

It's opaque and has more body, but still nice and soft. And there was plain rayon challis to match for a lining!

Problem solved, even though I ended up buying more fabric because there's always That Other Piece. In this case, it was this rayon/linen with purple, orange, and charcoal swirls. It doesn't go with the vacation stuff at all but I like it and will use it for something.

All in all I ended up with fabric for a dress, a back up lining fabric for summer (the white challis), and the piece bought on spec. Not too bad, considering.

Puerto Rico Wardrobe, Part 3, More RTW

Following are some more RTW items that I plan to bring on the Puerto Rico trip.

These cotton T's are from Talbot's. The floor shot makes them look boxy but they're actually fitted. Yes, I get into buying multiples of the same thing.

These white cotton crops came from TJ Maxx. It's a neat garment with some interesting features that might be fun to copy in the future. The belt is actually built into the pants, consisting of a piece of black elastic threaded through belt loops and pockets. The last set of openings are actually small vertical welts. And, one end of the elastic was attached before completing the fly front and waistband.

Of course, more shoes sandals. Although it's hard to tell from the camera angle, both pairs have heels; the Borns are a bit higher. I haven't decided whether to bring both pairs or just one but there's plenty of time to decide.

Puerto Rico Wardrobe, Part 2

Here are some more items that might make it into the sewn portion of the Puerto Rico Wardrobe.

I think I need a dress, and I have two in mind. The first one is this OOP Butterick Fashion Express, very similar to a Vera Wang dress that TerriK pointed out. Sorry, the pattern is no longer on the website, but dresses similar to this pop up all the time as BMV and Simplicity offerings.

My other option is this little dress from Butterick 5225. It recently went OOP but is still on Butterick's website.

A complicating factor is that the fabric I want to use is this:

It's a very pale cream rayon, so see through will be an issue as you can tell from the photo. Lining is a must, and I'm thinking that will be simpler with the second dress. On the other hand, the second dress requires a strapless bra. I have one, but they aren't the most comfortable thing to wear, are they? I need to figure this one out or go fabric shopping. :)

Cropped pants. I have a RTW white pair that fits but I'd also like to bring a black pair. I have some linen left over from this project, so I'm considering a pair of TSW Hudson pants:

I'll let you know what I decide as I continue working on the items I'm sure of. I'll also post photos of more of the RTW items soon. In the meantime, here are the new sandals I bought for the trip. They're both adorable and comfortable. I got them from 6pm.com; the price was right too.

Puerto Rico Wardrobe

DH and I will be heading to the sunny and warm island of Puerto Rico later this month, so of course I have sewing and wardrobe plans to share. I've selected a "theme" fabric from the stash here at Casa DaQ, this floral linen:

However, most of the clothes I'm taking are RTW. And here are some quick on-the-bed pictures of those items:

These two skirts are from Garnet Hill and are made of modal/cotton jersey. They're darker in real life but I lightened the photo to show the detail of the charcoal gray and black skirts.

I bought this sweater ages ago during the ASG Convention at the Opryland Hotel in Nashville. Rhinestone zipper, y'all.

This cardi is from the late Casual Corner chain, a workhorse in black crochet.  This picture was also lightened to show detail.

These pants came from TJ Maxx and are the perfect gray to go with the print.

Since laying these out, my closet yielded some other items that I haven't photographed yet--white cropped pants, T-shirts, etc. I'll put them in another post.

Getting back to that linen, it's going to be a Pure and Simple Shell, one of Louise Cutting's designs that I've made before. I also making a TSW Mixit Tank from a floral cotton lawn in the same colorway:

I'm hoping to get a couple more items made but those two are the ones that are ready to go now; hence, the most likely to make the trip.