Sunday, February 28, 2010

TSW Urban Pants

Last night I pulled a fabric that'll work well and cut out my pants. It's a navy and gray mini-houndstooth suiting. It reads as a solid taupe-y gray, so will be a versatile look.

I began sewing today, and the pants are going together easily. I've already completed both legs and attached them together. The next step is the waistband, then finally, the hems. This pattern is based on the same block as the TSW Plaza Pants that I've made before, so I'm familiar with the construction process. The fit should also be similar.

I forgot to mention that I've streamlined the pattern this time in addition to making this version longer. I left off the slits and button loops this time since this is essentially a test pair and because the weather is still cool.

Saturday, February 27, 2010

New Projects

I'm taking a little break from the Boatneck Top, but still sewing. I'm just working on some other projects this weekend.

I recently did a bit of cleaning and organizing in the sewing room and uncovered some heathered mint green knit that was left over from a late 1990s project. There are actually two fabrics, a plain knit and coordinating textured knit. I think the fiber content is polyester and acrylic but I can't be sure. I'm making a cardigan out of it, using Kwik Sew 2948:


I'm making View B, the pink version in the illustration. This pattern has been around for a long time, and is a TNT for me. I think I have enough of the plain knit left to make the matching shell for a twin set.

My other project is a pair of TSW Urban Pants:



I've slightly modified the pattern to make full length pants, since it won't be warm enough for crops for at least another month. I'd like to get these done by next weekend. I have to decide on fabric first; hopefully no analysis paralysis to get in my way!

Monday, February 15, 2010

Loes Hinse Boatneck Top: 1st Attempt is a Wadder


I've had this pattern for quite a while. Like the last one (Cowl Top), I hadn't made anything with it yet. I figured now would be a good time, since it's another basic shape and I had pretty good luck with the two Loes Hinse tops I just made. So, off to the fabric stash where I picked out another stretch velvet. This one has a regular pile and cost just $1 per yard, having come from the Jo-Ann's clearance section.

The photo above is from Loes Hinse's website and shows the funnel neck version. I'm making the version that actually has a boat neck. Strange naming of these patterns--only one view actually matches the style, the other variations do not.

This one is more fiddly to put together because it requires careful matching at the sleeve and neckline junctions. In my haste and hubris, I basically skipped marking the little dots from the pattern pieces to the fabric. So basically, I'm had an impossible time of turning under the neckline edge. And I'm not loving the fabric so much that I want to make it work.

I did sew up the side seams so I could at least try it on and see if it fits, and it does! So on to Attempt #2. I'll be sure to mark everything properly this go round.

Thursday, February 11, 2010

One More Vera Wang Cut


I have one more piece to share with you--I didn't grab a picture of it from Fabric.com when the fabric was available, and they pulled the listing quickly when it sold out. Anyway, this is it.

It was described on the site as chiffon. However, it's definitely not chiffon as I understand it, as in sheer and floaty. I would describe this fabric as a tissue weight shantung; better, in my opinion. It's polyester but seems well behaved. I'm thinking of making it into a top.

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Loes Hinse Cowl Top View B


Another quick project.

Saturday, I cut out and sewed another top from the same Loes Hinse pattern I used for the gray and black chenille tunic. I used some devore knit panne velvet that I bought at JoAnn's Fabrics several years ago. It took minimal time to make and came out beautifully. I wore it to church on Sunday, and was very happy with it (although a lined jacket should be worn in the future--panne goes "velcro" on anything with texture).

I can tell that this is going to be a TNT pattern--what the heck took me so long to use it? I've only made Loes Hinse skirts until now, but now I'm looking forward to making the tops!

I'm still in the process of learning my new camera, so bear with me. The new one is another point and shoot, but has more megapixels--12.2! And best of all, it has a screen in the front of the camera so the person being photographed can see how they look. It also came with a bunch of accessories including a tripod. Now I just need to make time to learn its idiosyncracies.

Sunday, February 7, 2010

More Vera Wang

The rest of the Vera Wang fabric I ordered arrived on Tuesday. More beautiful, interesting and surprising fabrics.


The amber brocade is another large scale floral print. The fabric itself is similar to the lavender floral I got in the previous shipment. On first glance, it reminded me of 1970's fiberglass drapes, but it's growing on me. I'm thinking of making a pencil skirt from it.


The other brocade I got was the one Vera used for this skirt. I love it! The colors are gorgeous and rich, and the fabric softened and texturized after a trip through the washer and dryer (cold water wash and delicate dry cyle). Originally, I planned for this to be a skirt, but I've changed my mind. I think it would make a great little jacket.



I'd describe the fabric above as a jacquard taffeta. The circles are woven into the fabric. It washed and dried fine, but it does seem fairly water resistant. So it's going to be used with this pattern, the view with the hood:



This green is a stretch twill that will be perfect for pants and/or a skirt.



This fabric was the bulk of the order. It's a knit poly/lycra. I realize it doesn't look like much but it will be perfect as a lining for those tissue knits that are just a bit too sheer.

There was one last piece I didn't grab a picture of so that one will have to wait until I can photograph it. It may be my favorite of all, a "chiffon" with abstract blue flowers.

Saturday, February 6, 2010

Sew Creative Club: Linda Lee and Project Sewing Workshop

This post is sort of a continuation of the last one. In addition to sponsoring the class on Monday, Ann Silva's also had Linda Lee at the monthly Sew Creative Club meeting on Tuesday. So of course, I also went to that!

For Sew Creative, Linda showed many garments from her pattern collection, but she also spoke about Project Sewing Workshop, her other endeavor in conjunction with Bernina. She introduced Project Sewing Workshop last year at the ASG Conference. Since then, she's done a lot of development work on the program. The kits are still the main part, but there's more.
  • There's an Artist Series of patterns specifically designed for PSW: the first one features quilt artist Yvonne Porcella. This series will feature a new fiber/quilt artist twice a year. There will be special embellishment kits as well as fabric kits associated with each pattern so you can create the look. Linda said the embellishment kits will feature buttons and other embellishments that you can't find anywhere else.
  • There's a whole swatching service that sewing stores can participate in, without having to stock thousands of additional yards of fabric. I really liked the viscose knits that were available. She will have standard fabrics that will be available only through participating stores, as well as special ones that will be available at the stores and online. Of course it would be great to have a quality local independent fabric shop, but face it, that's not going to happen. This is another option that's quasi local.
  • The kits: PSW plans to offer kits featuring patterns from other fabric companies, so there will be additional options. The fabrics and patterns will change several times during the year.
  • Accessories: buttons have been added to the PSW line, as well as fasteners. I bought some buckles that will be used on the Soho Coat I've had in the planning stage forever.

Sewing Workshop Techniques Class


This post and the next one will probably be very boring for anyone who doesn't sew. Just don't say you weren't warned. I also didn't have much opportunity for picture taking, so this one is text heavy as well.

I took Monday off and spent all day in sewing class with Linda Lee and my fellow sewists. Linda is the owner of the Sewing Workshop Pattern Collection.



What a fabulous time! The focus of the class was learning the fine points of quality garment sewing. Linda believes if you're going to spend time, you should make as high level garment as possible. Emulate high end RTW, not Walmart, in other words.

Some general principles:
  • The fabric dictates the seam finish.
  • Use different seam finishes for different areas of your garments.
  • Make samples even before cutting into your fabric. You may need additional seam allowances, etc. that may need to be accounted for when cutting out the garment.
  • 80/12 Universal needle 90% of the time.
  • Use a short stitch length, 2.2 or so.
  • Preferred thread is cotton, specifically Metrosene. The exception is sewing with knits, where you should use polyester.
  • Marking: very important. Use tailor tacks, an old technique but the most accurate way.
Most of Monday morning involved sewing samples of seam finishes, including French seams, Hong Kong finish, flat fell seams, and turn and stitch. There are many options other than just serging the edges and you may want to use more than one seam finish in a garment.

After lunch, we made hem samples: mitered hem, Linda's knit hem technique, and a handkerchief hem. The final sample was installing an invisible zipper without pinning.

Through the class, Linda discussed garments from the Sewing Workshop Pattern Collection:
  • Lotus Skirt: it has come back in style and popularity. She's now making it 4" shorter than the original. Several samples were shown.
  • Mixit: 3 tops in this pattern. The princess seamed shirt can be made up as a top or jacket.
  • Trio T: Linda went in depth with this one, discussing how to make this t on the sewing machine. So yes, you can sew knits without a serger.
  • Trio Top: Linda was wearing this one as a blouse under a Zig Zag Shirt. It was made in a lightweight georgette. Very cute and different than other versions I've seen before.
  • San Diego Jacket: many sample garments. Linda used this pattern to discuss the importance of marking.
  • Valencia Jacket: This is somewhat similar to the drape-front knits Donna Karan has been showing but shorter. She had several samples in both wovens and knits. Definitely requires a drapy fabric
  • Liberty Shirt: Linda used this top as jumping off point to demonstrate setting in a sleeve, using the sewing ham to shape the sleeve cap, ideal ease in sleeve cap (1.5 inches or less), pinning sleeve to garment to build in ease.
  • Plaza, Valencia, and Urban Pants: all are built on the same block. Linda has submitted an article to Threads that explains how to make variations to a basic pant pattern.
  • Oh yeah, and the famous felted wool Zen Shirt from the most recent cover of Threads. FYI, Linda has put the instructions for how to make this shirt/jacket on her blog.
Linda provided a lot of information during the day. It was a challenge to keep up with it all but now I have techniques that I can use on my own things, and samples that will help jog my memory. Linda also mentioned a lot of reference materials that we could make use of later.