The American Sewing Guild is having its annual conference in Albuquerque this summer. I'm considering occasional posts that will provide some information on the city and state. I could also post some observations based on my past attendance at this conference. All this would be supplemental as I'm only affiliated with ASG as a member and have not been involved in the planning in any way.
Of course, I'll be attending and it's likely that you'll see me working at the convention.
Is this a good idea and what kind of things would you like to know?
Tuesday, March 31, 2009
Sunday, March 29, 2009
Now Shirt is Done
I finally completed the Now Shirt that I worked on at the Sewing Workshop Getaway I attended over Super Bowl Weekend. All that was left was buttonholes and buttons, yet it took a long time for me to get around to it. Probably because I'm not crazy about the buttonhole function on any of my sewing machines. I like the automatic buttonhole function, but the Brother is notoriously picky and the Bernina doesn't have this. So of course, I used the Brother and struggled with it. I'm not thrilled with how they came out, but it is a busy batik print so the details don't really show. Must. Practice. with. Bernina. It does make a nice buttonhole, even if it's not automatic.
The top came out cute and I wore it to church today.
The fabrics from Textile Studios came yesterday, and they are gorgeous!! The pictures I posted are pretty accurate but don't compare with real life. I also picked up a short length of cotton fabric while researching rayons at Hancock.
Not much rayon there BTW. One display, most of it tropical prints for Hawaiian shirts. However, there were some solids, which are often hard to find.
I also stopped by World Market on the way home to restock the wine rack, and found a really cool dish towel that I plan to use in something, I'm not sure what. Worse comes to worse, it'll end up as a dish towel! (Added 3/31/09: wow, the monitor really makes a difference! I was confused about a comment I received about combining the towel with black and white fabrics until I saw the photo on my work monitor. The towel is actually dark navy and white and looks that way on my laptop. But it definitely looks black and white here at the office!)
Thursday, March 26, 2009
Where is the Rayon for Broomstick Skirts?
In my stash of course! mwahahahahaha!!
But seriously, fabrics do seem to come and go. Rayon may be one of those that's gone these days, unless you have a stash like mine.
Regardless, what you're going to be looking for is a lightweight, natural fiber. Polyester won't pleat. Also avoid fabrics with lycra or spandex in them for the same reason. Unfortunately, I feel that quilt cottons don't work well as broomstick skirts--the fabric is a too tightly woven and heavy, resulting in a stiff, board-like skirt. That's a shame, really, because they have some great prints and colors.
As your humble correspondent, I decided to do some searching around to see what's going on these days. Since my local fabric stores are Jo-Ann, Hancock's and Hobby Lobby, I've become familiar with ordering on-line. If you can't find rayon in a local store, this could be an option for you as well. These are some on-line stores that have rayon or other fabrics you could substitute:
fabric.com: Most of their rayons are batik, but there are also some rayon failles you might try.
Fashion Fabrics Club: 33 pages of various rayon fabrics. Not all would work, such as suitings, linen look and knits. But there's bound to be something usable in that many pages. Not especially responsive but the prices are good.
eQuilter: Batiks, hand-dyes, prints. Lots of tropical shirt type prints, but the search also brought up some pretty bamboo and cotton blends. I haven't tried using bamboo for broomstick skirts, but they'd probably work, being natural fibers and all.
Textile Studio: Not much rayon, but they have some pretty silks, cotton lawn and cotton voile. These types of fabrics would work. From my experience, they are responsive to email questions.
Gorgeous Fabrics: Not much woven rayon, but Ann has some silks that would probably work, cotton gauze, cotton voile, and also some rayon velvet devore that would be fabulous. Not to mention a huge assortment of rayon knit that would make great coordinating tops for your skirts. Ann, the owner, has always responded quickly to my questions.
Emma One Sock: No rayons that would work but her stock changes often. Try back again.
Waechter's: Mostly rayon batiks at this time but there are a few rayon prints mixed in there. Also cotton lawn and voile. And silk.
FabricMart: I didn't see a lot of rayon this visit, but it's a good resource and worth checking often.
If you have additional suggestions, let me know and I'll add them to another post.
Warning--it's very tempting when searching all these websites for fabric. So of course, a few pieces are on their way to Casa Flan. These may or may not be broomstick skirt worthy, but I'm sure I'll find a use for them.
This one is coming from Gorgeous Fabrics:
These two are from Textile Studios:
Don't say you haven't been warned.
But seriously, fabrics do seem to come and go. Rayon may be one of those that's gone these days, unless you have a stash like mine.
Regardless, what you're going to be looking for is a lightweight, natural fiber. Polyester won't pleat. Also avoid fabrics with lycra or spandex in them for the same reason. Unfortunately, I feel that quilt cottons don't work well as broomstick skirts--the fabric is a too tightly woven and heavy, resulting in a stiff, board-like skirt. That's a shame, really, because they have some great prints and colors.
As your humble correspondent, I decided to do some searching around to see what's going on these days. Since my local fabric stores are Jo-Ann, Hancock's and Hobby Lobby, I've become familiar with ordering on-line. If you can't find rayon in a local store, this could be an option for you as well. These are some on-line stores that have rayon or other fabrics you could substitute:
fabric.com: Most of their rayons are batik, but there are also some rayon failles you might try.
Fashion Fabrics Club: 33 pages of various rayon fabrics. Not all would work, such as suitings, linen look and knits. But there's bound to be something usable in that many pages. Not especially responsive but the prices are good.
eQuilter: Batiks, hand-dyes, prints. Lots of tropical shirt type prints, but the search also brought up some pretty bamboo and cotton blends. I haven't tried using bamboo for broomstick skirts, but they'd probably work, being natural fibers and all.
Textile Studio: Not much rayon, but they have some pretty silks, cotton lawn and cotton voile. These types of fabrics would work. From my experience, they are responsive to email questions.
Gorgeous Fabrics: Not much woven rayon, but Ann has some silks that would probably work, cotton gauze, cotton voile, and also some rayon velvet devore that would be fabulous. Not to mention a huge assortment of rayon knit that would make great coordinating tops for your skirts. Ann, the owner, has always responded quickly to my questions.
Emma One Sock: No rayons that would work but her stock changes often. Try back again.
Waechter's: Mostly rayon batiks at this time but there are a few rayon prints mixed in there. Also cotton lawn and voile. And silk.
FabricMart: I didn't see a lot of rayon this visit, but it's a good resource and worth checking often.
If you have additional suggestions, let me know and I'll add them to another post.
Warning--it's very tempting when searching all these websites for fabric. So of course, a few pieces are on their way to Casa Flan. These may or may not be broomstick skirt worthy, but I'm sure I'll find a use for them.
This one is coming from Gorgeous Fabrics:
These two are from Textile Studios:
Don't say you haven't been warned.
Sunday, March 22, 2009
Pleating a Broomstick Skirt
The distinguishing feature of a true broomstick skirt is the pleating. Especially with a tiered skirt, the sheer volume of all that fabric can be overwhelming. The pleating (or "brooming") changes the look and helps to control all of that fabric. The skirt below is the traditional tiered style. I used a lightweight cotton ikat for this one.
Here's another picture of it spread out. As you can see, there's a lot more fabric in it. I think this one took at least 5 yards, maybe more. This one was made using the LJ Designs Ultimate Broomstick Skirt pattern.
I also pleat the skirts I make from the Leslie's Broomstick Skirt design.
I learned how to do this when I took a class from Nancy L. at Ann Silva's at least 12-15 years ago. I've developed my own refinements to the method, but I've done this many, many times over the years. So I'm providing the basic method that you can use as a jumping off point.
Remember, this technique works best with lightweight natural fibers such as rayon, cotton, or silk. Polyester or polyester blends do not pleat well. Also avoid fabrics with lycra or spandex in them.
If the fabric has been prewashed, starching it won't hurt it, but test a scrap first if you have any doubts. You can also pleat without starch but the pleats will last longer with starch. Yesterday, I pulled out an old tiered skirt to show you and the pleats were still in it. It probably hasn't been worn in 5 years. That skirt is the one that appeared at the beginning of this post.
I've heard of people dunking their skirts into a sink full of starch. Please don't. It puts too much starch into the skirt and will probably mildew before drying, even in a dry climate like New Mexico. You can imagine what might happen in a more humid climate.
Supplies. You'll need the following:
So here goes:
Run the skirt through the rinse cycle of the washer and spin dry, or dampen the skirt by thoroughly spraying it with water. Wetting allows you to use less starch and also helps the fabric absorb the starch evenly. You can put the skirt in the dryer for a short time until damp. The skirt should not be dripping wet.
Mix equal parts water and liquid starch in a spray bottle. Don't use canned spray starch; it flakes. Don't use starch on velvet, just pleat it without starch. The amount of starch depends depend on a number of factors: the fullness of the skirt, the thickness of the fabric, and the amount of stiffness you want.
Lay out the damp skirt on a flat surface and spread it out as much as you can. Or, hang the skirt on a hanger over the bathtub or outdoors. Spray the entire skirt with the starch mixture. Get it as even as you can. The skirt should not be dripping wet when you finish. I use the top of my washing machine, but my skirts aren't that voluminous and I've done this process many times. Give yourself some space the first few times you do this.
Get out the broomstick and wrap the waistband around the top end, keeping the waist level as you wrap. After wrapping, hold the skirt in place with the rubber band wrapped tightly around the waistband. Don't stretch out the waistband while wrapping.
Gently pull the leg of the panty hose down over the skirt, leaving 4"-5" of the skirt's bottom exposed.
Place a safety pin in the hem at any spot on the outer edge. You are just marking a beginning and ending point.
Lean the broomstick against the wall. Using both hands, tug on the skirt hem every 1"-2", forming the pleats. Move both hands in the same direction, working your way around to all layers wrapped onto the broomstick. Doing this allows you to straighten out the pleats as much as possible.
Once you have finished tugging those pleats, remove the safety pin and carefully pull the panty hose completely over the bottom of the skirt. If necessary, realign the pleats at the bottom. You can even do this through the hose. You can use the panty hose legs over and over again; this is a great use for ones that have snags or runs.
Allow skirt to dry 24 to 48 hours in a well-ventilated place. I often take mine out to the patio and lean them against the wall of my house.
Carefully remove hose and gently unwrap the skirt from the broomstick. Do not spread the pleats. Your skirt may still be quite damp. Hang on a skirt hanger and make sure all areas of the skirt are exposed to the air. Allow to dry completely. I don't do this, but I live in a dry climate and the skirt is often fully dry before I remove it from the broomstick. If you live in a "normal" climate, you'll need to take it off the pole before it's fully dry.
When ready to wear, shake out the skirt and wear with joy!
This process is repeated each time you wash the skirt.
If desired, you can re-roll the skirt and store it in the panty hose to preserve the pleats.
***********************
Pamela at Stitcher's Guild reminded me of the Gypsy Skirt instructions that appeared in Threads Number 125 (July 2006).
The article doesn't appear to be available online, but the back issue is still available. While I didn't like some of the sewing instuctions (ugh, exposed seams!), the basic techniques appear to be good ones. Make use of your ruffler attachment if you have one; it will save a lot of time over hand gathering.
Here's another picture of it spread out. As you can see, there's a lot more fabric in it. I think this one took at least 5 yards, maybe more. This one was made using the LJ Designs Ultimate Broomstick Skirt pattern.
I also pleat the skirts I make from the Leslie's Broomstick Skirt design.
I learned how to do this when I took a class from Nancy L. at Ann Silva's at least 12-15 years ago. I've developed my own refinements to the method, but I've done this many, many times over the years. So I'm providing the basic method that you can use as a jumping off point.
Remember, this technique works best with lightweight natural fibers such as rayon, cotton, or silk. Polyester or polyester blends do not pleat well. Also avoid fabrics with lycra or spandex in them.
If the fabric has been prewashed, starching it won't hurt it, but test a scrap first if you have any doubts. You can also pleat without starch but the pleats will last longer with starch. Yesterday, I pulled out an old tiered skirt to show you and the pleats were still in it. It probably hasn't been worn in 5 years. That skirt is the one that appeared at the beginning of this post.
I've heard of people dunking their skirts into a sink full of starch. Please don't. It puts too much starch into the skirt and will probably mildew before drying, even in a dry climate like New Mexico. You can imagine what might happen in a more humid climate.
Supplies. You'll need the following:
- Water
- Sta-Flo Liquid Starch (or equivalent brand)
- Spray Bottle
- Skirt Hanger
- Clean Broomstick or Large Dowel, 1-2 feet longer than the skirt,
- Heavy-duty Rubber Band
- Panty Hose (an old pair is fine), cut off the legs
- Safety Pin
So here goes:
Run the skirt through the rinse cycle of the washer and spin dry, or dampen the skirt by thoroughly spraying it with water. Wetting allows you to use less starch and also helps the fabric absorb the starch evenly. You can put the skirt in the dryer for a short time until damp. The skirt should not be dripping wet.
Mix equal parts water and liquid starch in a spray bottle. Don't use canned spray starch; it flakes. Don't use starch on velvet, just pleat it without starch. The amount of starch depends depend on a number of factors: the fullness of the skirt, the thickness of the fabric, and the amount of stiffness you want.
Lay out the damp skirt on a flat surface and spread it out as much as you can. Or, hang the skirt on a hanger over the bathtub or outdoors. Spray the entire skirt with the starch mixture. Get it as even as you can. The skirt should not be dripping wet when you finish. I use the top of my washing machine, but my skirts aren't that voluminous and I've done this process many times. Give yourself some space the first few times you do this.
Get out the broomstick and wrap the waistband around the top end, keeping the waist level as you wrap. After wrapping, hold the skirt in place with the rubber band wrapped tightly around the waistband. Don't stretch out the waistband while wrapping.
Gently pull the leg of the panty hose down over the skirt, leaving 4"-5" of the skirt's bottom exposed.
Place a safety pin in the hem at any spot on the outer edge. You are just marking a beginning and ending point.
Lean the broomstick against the wall. Using both hands, tug on the skirt hem every 1"-2", forming the pleats. Move both hands in the same direction, working your way around to all layers wrapped onto the broomstick. Doing this allows you to straighten out the pleats as much as possible.
Once you have finished tugging those pleats, remove the safety pin and carefully pull the panty hose completely over the bottom of the skirt. If necessary, realign the pleats at the bottom. You can even do this through the hose. You can use the panty hose legs over and over again; this is a great use for ones that have snags or runs.
Allow skirt to dry 24 to 48 hours in a well-ventilated place. I often take mine out to the patio and lean them against the wall of my house.
Carefully remove hose and gently unwrap the skirt from the broomstick. Do not spread the pleats. Your skirt may still be quite damp. Hang on a skirt hanger and make sure all areas of the skirt are exposed to the air. Allow to dry completely. I don't do this, but I live in a dry climate and the skirt is often fully dry before I remove it from the broomstick. If you live in a "normal" climate, you'll need to take it off the pole before it's fully dry.
When ready to wear, shake out the skirt and wear with joy!
This process is repeated each time you wash the skirt.
If desired, you can re-roll the skirt and store it in the panty hose to preserve the pleats.
***********************
Pamela at Stitcher's Guild reminded me of the Gypsy Skirt instructions that appeared in Threads Number 125 (July 2006).
The article doesn't appear to be available online, but the back issue is still available. While I didn't like some of the sewing instuctions (ugh, exposed seams!), the basic techniques appear to be good ones. Make use of your ruffler attachment if you have one; it will save a lot of time over hand gathering.
Leslie's Broomstick Skirt
Corrected 4/18/09. ann I am found an error in the formula for X. Corrections are noted in red.
This is my favorite way to make a broomstick skirt--a more flattering silhouette and it uses less fabric. I made this one in 2006, using some Carole Little rayon that I had on hand.
This is a view of the skirt, stretched out so you can see the actual shape better. The broomstick pleating draws up the skirt considerably, but the pleats relax a bit with wearing. For reference, I was working with a 3-1/2 yard piece of 58" wide fabric. If I were making it today, it would be shorter but still calf length.
I'm sure my friend Leslie is not the only person to have come up with this idea. But Leslie is the only one I personally know who's done it and written it up for my ASG chapter. She has also given me permission to share. Keep in mind that she's an engineer by training and career, so that means there will be math. I will try to interpret as warranted. I'm transcribing her instructions verbatim with the help of scans. My comments will appear in italics.
****************************
This is for everyone who has asked me for my broomstick skirt pattern. This version of the skirt diminishes that "barrel" look that we see so often in the tiered variety. (I don't know about the rest of you, but I don't want that area from my waist to my knees appearing any bigger than it is!) Everyone should have their own individual pattern that is tailor-made to their size, desired skirt length and the width of their fashion fabric. The following method utilizes the fabric effectively, leaving very little scrap. As you will see, this pattern also halves your cutting time. Please note, if your fabric has a noticeable nap or a one-way design, this method of cutting is inappropriate.
You will be drafting one pattern piece, which you will use to cut every one of the skirt panels. Before you start, you need to know four things: how long you want your finished skirt to be, your fullest hip measurement, your fashion fabric width and how many panels you want your skirt to have. (When you buy your fabric, you need to buy a little more than twice your desired skirt length plus 4 inches. If you are buying 45 inch wide material and your hips are larger than 43 inches, you will need an extra 8 inches instead of 4. You will have to piece your waistband, but no one will notice).
You will be using the following formulas to determine your pattern dimensions:
X = (Ct /(2 * number of panels)) + .25
X equals half of panel’s top edge, and Ct equals fullest hip measurement plus 2 inches.
The reason why X is half of the panel’s top width will become more clear when you draw the pattern piece.
First calculate x using the above formula. If the formula doesn't make sense, here it is in words: divide Ct by 2 times the number of panels. Then add 1/4" (it's hard to put formulas into Blogger--obviously it's not designed for that purpose! So bear with me, OK?)
Put that x value into one of the next three formulas, being sure to use the one that corresponds to the number of panels you are planning for your skirt. This calculation will give you a y value. You need to calculate both the x and y values to be able to draft your pattern. The pattern will look like a trapezoid when you are finished.
The resulting skirt will measure the same, regardless of the number of panels. However, the size of the pattern piece is different depending on which option you choose.
10 panel formula:
Y = (W/2 - 2X) / 3
12 panel formula:
Y = (W/2 - 2X) / 4
14 panel formula:
Y = (W/2 - 3X) / 4
In all 3 formulas, W equals the width of the fabric and Y equals half of the panel’s lower edge. This makes more sense when you draw the pattern piece and when you cut out the panels.
Cb = 2 * number of panels * (y-.25)
= circumference at skirt hem
L = skirt length + 1 inch
1/2” allowed for hem and for waist seam allowance
Remember, Leslie's an engineer. I'm not sure how she derived these formulas but they work.
On your pattern paper, draw a long straight line equal to L, your desired skirt length plus 1 inch. This will be the center of your trapezoid and will be on the straight of grain when placed on your fabric. At one end of the line measure out at right angles your calculated distance x. Make a big dot. Do this on both sides of the line and connect the dots.
At the opposite side of line L, perform the same operation, but use your calculated y value this time. You should have a figure that looks like the capital letter "I" but with the base wider than the top. Connect each top dot with a bottom dots and you should see a trapezoid.
I hear you saying this is a lot of calculation. But remember, Leslie has 2 goals--she wants to make that panel pattern and also design the layout to use the least amount of fabric. So that's why there are all the formulas. The illustration below will help you visualize the drafting and how X, Y, and L are used:
Your typical flared skirt does not have a straight hemline. You will need to draw in a gentle curve by eyeballing it or using a long French curve. As a rule of thumb, I measure up from the hem by about 1/4" on the legs of the trapezoid and make the curve intersect those two points as well as the end point of centerline L. The illustration above shows the curving of the pattern piece.
I'll also mention that I don't re-draft every time the variables change. I just went ahead and made patterns for 10, 12, and 14 panels and go straight to cutting.
You have completed your skirt panel pattern and you are ready to cut fabric.
Your fabric should be folded in half lengthwise, selvage to selvage. The fabric length is two times the skirt length L plus 4 or 8 inches for the waistband.
The scan above shows the layout for a 10-panel skirt. The layout shows the 5 of the 10 panels only; you repeat for the second 5. Same thing with the diagrams below.
Start by placing the centerline (L) of your pattern on the fold, which will form a complete panel once cut and unfolded. Rotate the pattern piece 180 degrees and place it back on the fabric. The cut edge you just made should line up with the pattern piece's edge, and the centerline will still be on the straight of grain. Cut the remaining 3 sides. You have just cut panels 2 and 3 (remember you are cutting a double thickness. Rotate the pattern piece 180 degrees again and place it back on the fabric, lining up the edge of the pattern to that freshly cut edge of fabric again. Cut. Now you have 5 panels. At this point, you can see that the remaining 5 panels will be done in exactly the same way on the remaining section of your fabric length.
The scans below show layouts for 12 and 14 panel skirts.
Now it's time to sew!! Leslie (and I) do everything except the hem and waistband topstitching with a serger. Right sides together, using 1/4" seams, stitch all but one seam together. Be sure to line up the waist edges and the hem edges together when sewing the seams.
Serge the waistband to the skirt's upper edge right sides together, lining up the edges of the waistband with the raw edges of the skirt seam. Serge the remaining seam together, connecting skirt panels and waistband edges at the same time.
Since I've started sewing Loes Hinse patterns, I use her waistband technique instead of installing a separate casing. If you do this, then be sure to add additional length at the waist edge of the pattern piece equal to at least 2 times the width of the elastic you'll be using. Because Loes' technique doesn't need a separate casing, you will also go ahead and complete the cylinder at this point. Sorry, I'm not going to explain the technique here.
Now the skirt is a complete cylinder and is waiting for you to make a casing and insert elastic. Depending on your elastic width, you may need to trim away some of the waistband's width.
Finish the skirt hem with a 5/8" machine hem (or make a rolled edge on your serger).
You are ready to "broom" the skirt using your favorite method. I'll explain my method in another post.
Leslie says, and I agree, on the following: when you are selecting fabric for your skirt, look for lightweight rayons, silks, and cottons. Cotton is not our favorite because the broomed fabric seams stiff and boxy. Also, avoid anything with polyester content, as it won't take or retain a good pleat.
This is my favorite way to make a broomstick skirt--a more flattering silhouette and it uses less fabric. I made this one in 2006, using some Carole Little rayon that I had on hand.
This is a view of the skirt, stretched out so you can see the actual shape better. The broomstick pleating draws up the skirt considerably, but the pleats relax a bit with wearing. For reference, I was working with a 3-1/2 yard piece of 58" wide fabric. If I were making it today, it would be shorter but still calf length.
I'm sure my friend Leslie is not the only person to have come up with this idea. But Leslie is the only one I personally know who's done it and written it up for my ASG chapter. She has also given me permission to share. Keep in mind that she's an engineer by training and career, so that means there will be math. I will try to interpret as warranted. I'm transcribing her instructions verbatim with the help of scans. My comments will appear in italics.
****************************
This is for everyone who has asked me for my broomstick skirt pattern. This version of the skirt diminishes that "barrel" look that we see so often in the tiered variety. (I don't know about the rest of you, but I don't want that area from my waist to my knees appearing any bigger than it is!) Everyone should have their own individual pattern that is tailor-made to their size, desired skirt length and the width of their fashion fabric. The following method utilizes the fabric effectively, leaving very little scrap. As you will see, this pattern also halves your cutting time. Please note, if your fabric has a noticeable nap or a one-way design, this method of cutting is inappropriate.
You will be drafting one pattern piece, which you will use to cut every one of the skirt panels. Before you start, you need to know four things: how long you want your finished skirt to be, your fullest hip measurement, your fashion fabric width and how many panels you want your skirt to have. (When you buy your fabric, you need to buy a little more than twice your desired skirt length plus 4 inches. If you are buying 45 inch wide material and your hips are larger than 43 inches, you will need an extra 8 inches instead of 4. You will have to piece your waistband, but no one will notice).
You will be using the following formulas to determine your pattern dimensions:
X = (Ct /(2 * number of panels)) + .25
X equals half of panel’s top edge, and Ct equals fullest hip measurement plus 2 inches.
The reason why X is half of the panel’s top width will become more clear when you draw the pattern piece.
First calculate x using the above formula. If the formula doesn't make sense, here it is in words: divide Ct by 2 times the number of panels. Then add 1/4" (it's hard to put formulas into Blogger--obviously it's not designed for that purpose! So bear with me, OK?)
Put that x value into one of the next three formulas, being sure to use the one that corresponds to the number of panels you are planning for your skirt. This calculation will give you a y value. You need to calculate both the x and y values to be able to draft your pattern. The pattern will look like a trapezoid when you are finished.
The resulting skirt will measure the same, regardless of the number of panels. However, the size of the pattern piece is different depending on which option you choose.
10 panel formula:
Y = (W/2 - 2X) / 3
12 panel formula:
Y = (W/2 - 2X) / 4
14 panel formula:
Y = (W/2 - 3X) / 4
In all 3 formulas, W equals the width of the fabric and Y equals half of the panel’s lower edge. This makes more sense when you draw the pattern piece and when you cut out the panels.
Cb = 2 * number of panels * (y-.25)
= circumference at skirt hem
L = skirt length + 1 inch
1/2” allowed for hem and for waist seam allowance
Remember, Leslie's an engineer. I'm not sure how she derived these formulas but they work.
On your pattern paper, draw a long straight line equal to L, your desired skirt length plus 1 inch. This will be the center of your trapezoid and will be on the straight of grain when placed on your fabric. At one end of the line measure out at right angles your calculated distance x. Make a big dot. Do this on both sides of the line and connect the dots.
At the opposite side of line L, perform the same operation, but use your calculated y value this time. You should have a figure that looks like the capital letter "I" but with the base wider than the top. Connect each top dot with a bottom dots and you should see a trapezoid.
I hear you saying this is a lot of calculation. But remember, Leslie has 2 goals--she wants to make that panel pattern and also design the layout to use the least amount of fabric. So that's why there are all the formulas. The illustration below will help you visualize the drafting and how X, Y, and L are used:
Your typical flared skirt does not have a straight hemline. You will need to draw in a gentle curve by eyeballing it or using a long French curve. As a rule of thumb, I measure up from the hem by about 1/4" on the legs of the trapezoid and make the curve intersect those two points as well as the end point of centerline L. The illustration above shows the curving of the pattern piece.
I'll also mention that I don't re-draft every time the variables change. I just went ahead and made patterns for 10, 12, and 14 panels and go straight to cutting.
You have completed your skirt panel pattern and you are ready to cut fabric.
Your fabric should be folded in half lengthwise, selvage to selvage. The fabric length is two times the skirt length L plus 4 or 8 inches for the waistband.
The scan above shows the layout for a 10-panel skirt. The layout shows the 5 of the 10 panels only; you repeat for the second 5. Same thing with the diagrams below.
Start by placing the centerline (L) of your pattern on the fold, which will form a complete panel once cut and unfolded. Rotate the pattern piece 180 degrees and place it back on the fabric. The cut edge you just made should line up with the pattern piece's edge, and the centerline will still be on the straight of grain. Cut the remaining 3 sides. You have just cut panels 2 and 3 (remember you are cutting a double thickness. Rotate the pattern piece 180 degrees again and place it back on the fabric, lining up the edge of the pattern to that freshly cut edge of fabric again. Cut. Now you have 5 panels. At this point, you can see that the remaining 5 panels will be done in exactly the same way on the remaining section of your fabric length.
The scans below show layouts for 12 and 14 panel skirts.
Now it's time to sew!! Leslie (and I) do everything except the hem and waistband topstitching with a serger. Right sides together, using 1/4" seams, stitch all but one seam together. Be sure to line up the waist edges and the hem edges together when sewing the seams.
Serge the waistband to the skirt's upper edge right sides together, lining up the edges of the waistband with the raw edges of the skirt seam. Serge the remaining seam together, connecting skirt panels and waistband edges at the same time.
Since I've started sewing Loes Hinse patterns, I use her waistband technique instead of installing a separate casing. If you do this, then be sure to add additional length at the waist edge of the pattern piece equal to at least 2 times the width of the elastic you'll be using. Because Loes' technique doesn't need a separate casing, you will also go ahead and complete the cylinder at this point. Sorry, I'm not going to explain the technique here.
Now the skirt is a complete cylinder and is waiting for you to make a casing and insert elastic. Depending on your elastic width, you may need to trim away some of the waistband's width.
Finish the skirt hem with a 5/8" machine hem (or make a rolled edge on your serger).
You are ready to "broom" the skirt using your favorite method. I'll explain my method in another post.
Leslie says, and I agree, on the following: when you are selecting fabric for your skirt, look for lightweight rayons, silks, and cottons. Cotton is not our favorite because the broomed fabric seams stiff and boxy. Also, avoid anything with polyester content, as it won't take or retain a good pleat.
Saturday, March 21, 2009
Broomstick Skirts: Introduction
I live in New Mexico, which is Broomstick Skirt Central. After all, this is a style based on Native American clothing of the Southwest. It was also adapted decades ago as an integral part of the Santa Fe Look that was later appropriated by Ralph Lauren. The broomstick skirt is a style that comes and goes in the rest of the world, but it lives here all the time.
Apparently, they're back again so it's time for me to spill some of my experience with this style. I'll be doing this as a series because I've gathered a lot of information over the years and I don't think it's necessary to go on and on with one single post.
I did scan some examples of broomstick skirts I've collected over the years and sprinkled them throughout this post, and I'll continue to do so through the series. Perhaps they'll serve as inspirations for your projects. Note: I've cleaned up and reposted the scans, so they look a little nicer now.
Scan courtesy of Nordstrom
Scan courtesy of Nordstrom
Scan courtesy of Nordstrom
Most people think of broomstick skirts as tiered, like the examples in this post, but they don't have to be. Broomstick actually refers to the technique of pleating, not the type of skirt. Actually, I think those tiered ones can be unflattering to many people, making them look heavy.
That being said, I'd recommend this pattern. It's the Ultimate Broomstick Skirt by LJ Designs. And here's Lyla Messinger, the designer, wearing it:
I like this pattern because the tiers are fairly close to the body through the waist and hip areas, and increase in circumference in the lower tiers. I know there are a lot of tiered skirt patterns out there in sewing land and on the internet. You could even work up your version of this skirt on your own. But this is a good one if you want to buy a pattern.
However, my favorite style of broomstick skirt is a gored skirt developed by my friend Leslie several years ago. She's given me permission to provide the instructions, but essentially it's a gored skirt made of many narrow panels and customized to your measurements. Since the instructions are kind of lengthy, I'm going to go over this in a separate post. Don't hold your breath, but there might even be a tutorial!
As I mentioned earlier, the pleating technique is what makes this style. I don't hold with instructions that tell you to twist the skirt until it rolls up on itself and let it dry. Doing so will give you a skirt with a pattern of wrinkles, but the look is different. Call me a purist, but to me it's not a broomstick skirt unless you starch it, roll it onto an actual broomstick, and let it dry into dozens of tiny vertical pleats. I even went to Home Depot and bought real broomsticks to dry mine on! I'll also do a post about that.
I've made a bunch of broomstick skirts over the years, both tiered and gored. I've made them from cotton in the past, but I've come to the conclusion that it's not the ideal fabric, especially the usual weight sold in the big box fabric stores. True, cotton is a natural fiber and it takes the pleats well, but cotton can be stiff, and that stiffness can add visual weight to the wearer. So I prefer rayon. Even when starched, rayon has a nicer drape that's more flattering.
Scan courtesy of Nordstrom
So there you have it for now. I'll follow up with posts on how to draft a gored skirt to broomstick and how to do the pleating. Let me know if you have any other questions on this subject, and I'll add them to the series.
Apparently, they're back again so it's time for me to spill some of my experience with this style. I'll be doing this as a series because I've gathered a lot of information over the years and I don't think it's necessary to go on and on with one single post.
I did scan some examples of broomstick skirts I've collected over the years and sprinkled them throughout this post, and I'll continue to do so through the series. Perhaps they'll serve as inspirations for your projects. Note: I've cleaned up and reposted the scans, so they look a little nicer now.
Scan courtesy of NordstromScan courtesy of NordstromScan courtesy of NordstromMost people think of broomstick skirts as tiered, like the examples in this post, but they don't have to be. Broomstick actually refers to the technique of pleating, not the type of skirt. Actually, I think those tiered ones can be unflattering to many people, making them look heavy.
That being said, I'd recommend this pattern. It's the Ultimate Broomstick Skirt by LJ Designs. And here's Lyla Messinger, the designer, wearing it:
I like this pattern because the tiers are fairly close to the body through the waist and hip areas, and increase in circumference in the lower tiers. I know there are a lot of tiered skirt patterns out there in sewing land and on the internet. You could even work up your version of this skirt on your own. But this is a good one if you want to buy a pattern.
However, my favorite style of broomstick skirt is a gored skirt developed by my friend Leslie several years ago. She's given me permission to provide the instructions, but essentially it's a gored skirt made of many narrow panels and customized to your measurements. Since the instructions are kind of lengthy, I'm going to go over this in a separate post. Don't hold your breath, but there might even be a tutorial!
As I mentioned earlier, the pleating technique is what makes this style. I don't hold with instructions that tell you to twist the skirt until it rolls up on itself and let it dry. Doing so will give you a skirt with a pattern of wrinkles, but the look is different. Call me a purist, but to me it's not a broomstick skirt unless you starch it, roll it onto an actual broomstick, and let it dry into dozens of tiny vertical pleats. I even went to Home Depot and bought real broomsticks to dry mine on! I'll also do a post about that.
I've made a bunch of broomstick skirts over the years, both tiered and gored. I've made them from cotton in the past, but I've come to the conclusion that it's not the ideal fabric, especially the usual weight sold in the big box fabric stores. True, cotton is a natural fiber and it takes the pleats well, but cotton can be stiff, and that stiffness can add visual weight to the wearer. So I prefer rayon. Even when starched, rayon has a nicer drape that's more flattering.
Scan courtesy of NordstromSo there you have it for now. I'll follow up with posts on how to draft a gored skirt to broomstick and how to do the pleating. Let me know if you have any other questions on this subject, and I'll add them to the series.
Saturday, March 14, 2009
The New Tango
Here's the finished Tango Skirt on Miss Acme, along with the Talbot's jacket that provided the inspiration. Miss Acme has a smaller bustline than I do, so the jacket looks a lot better on me than her. But I'm home alone right now...
Good catch if you think this fabric looks familiar. Sherril made a blouse out of the same fabric, which she's wearing on her PR avatar!
The Tango skirt pattern allows the fabric to be the star, and each one looks different enough that non-sewing friends don't roll their eyes when they see yet another one made up and worn. There will be more, because it's so easy to make, and pretty to wear.
Update 3/16/09: I wore this outfit to work today with a black knit top, also from Talbot's. Everything was comfortable and simple to wear while looking good. I'm sure the skirt will be a workhorse in my wardrobe! Thanks for all your compliments.
Tango Progress and Loes Hinse Tweaks
Loes Hinse's style of sewing is different than most pattern companies, with more serging and limited pressing. She has a real philosophy of how to sew, her methods flow from that, and she's pretty adamant about how her techniques should be followed. OK, I respect that, but I still do some things my way.
I thought it might be helpful to discuss what I do when I sew her patterns to "make it work." (I miss Tim Gunn saying that!). I'll explain some of the tweaks I use when sewing with Loes as I talk about my progress on the latest Tango Skirt.
When I last posted, I had cut out the 10 gores and sewn them together with conventional 1/4" seams. It was almost time to serge them all. Loes' styles are generally close fitting, so I often take the extra step of sewing conventionally followed by incrementally serging seams and trying on again until the fit is where I want it. This is pretty simple on a skirt with as many gores as the Tango. As a result of this process, I serged 6 of the 10 seams with deeper seam allowances (3/8" vs. 1/4", the pattern instructions call for 3/8" throughout).
Something else I do is to work flat for as long as possible. I try to do this on every project, not just this pattern. It's just simpler; I don't care for serging in the round and fooling around with ending the stitching when serging straight is soooo much easier. So my last seam of the skirt was basted so I could do my try-ons. When satisfied with the fit, I pulled out the basting and quickly finished the waist and hem edges. Then, that final vertical seam on the serger. At this point, the skirt is basically a tube.
I do a bit more pressing than Loes instructs. Personal preference; I like all those vertical seams to be flattened out a bit. Then, eyeballing it, I turned up a 1/2" hem. I've tried more "measured" ways of doing this, but on a curved hem like the Tango, it works for me. Loes just turns up as she sews. Maybe that works; I'm not there yet.
Re: the waist. The pattern instructions would have you attach the elastic and finish the edge in the same step. I've never felt comfortable doing that all at once. Stretching the elastic and trying to keep slippery fabric lined up all at the same time seems to require more hands than I have!! So I do them separately; it doesn't take that much longer. That's where I am right now; I'll be off to the sewing machine soon to finish. Stay tuned for a picture of the final skirt.
Resources:
The Ultimate Sewing Resource: Essentially, Loes' manifesto. Really!
S Magazine: There used to be a free Loes Hinse newsletter. Unfortunately no more, but some of them are still posted on-line at Casual Elegance. Download them while you can.
Casual Elegance: Partners with Loes to sell her type of fabrics, plus notions and online seminars.
Threads Magazine: I haven't found these online (yet). The Threads website's search feature leaves a lot to be desired, IMO. Whatever. These articles by Loes appeared in past issues:
I thought it might be helpful to discuss what I do when I sew her patterns to "make it work." (I miss Tim Gunn saying that!). I'll explain some of the tweaks I use when sewing with Loes as I talk about my progress on the latest Tango Skirt.
When I last posted, I had cut out the 10 gores and sewn them together with conventional 1/4" seams. It was almost time to serge them all. Loes' styles are generally close fitting, so I often take the extra step of sewing conventionally followed by incrementally serging seams and trying on again until the fit is where I want it. This is pretty simple on a skirt with as many gores as the Tango. As a result of this process, I serged 6 of the 10 seams with deeper seam allowances (3/8" vs. 1/4", the pattern instructions call for 3/8" throughout).
Something else I do is to work flat for as long as possible. I try to do this on every project, not just this pattern. It's just simpler; I don't care for serging in the round and fooling around with ending the stitching when serging straight is soooo much easier. So my last seam of the skirt was basted so I could do my try-ons. When satisfied with the fit, I pulled out the basting and quickly finished the waist and hem edges. Then, that final vertical seam on the serger. At this point, the skirt is basically a tube.
I do a bit more pressing than Loes instructs. Personal preference; I like all those vertical seams to be flattened out a bit. Then, eyeballing it, I turned up a 1/2" hem. I've tried more "measured" ways of doing this, but on a curved hem like the Tango, it works for me. Loes just turns up as she sews. Maybe that works; I'm not there yet.
Re: the waist. The pattern instructions would have you attach the elastic and finish the edge in the same step. I've never felt comfortable doing that all at once. Stretching the elastic and trying to keep slippery fabric lined up all at the same time seems to require more hands than I have!! So I do them separately; it doesn't take that much longer. That's where I am right now; I'll be off to the sewing machine soon to finish. Stay tuned for a picture of the final skirt.
Resources:
The Ultimate Sewing Resource: Essentially, Loes' manifesto. Really!
S Magazine: There used to be a free Loes Hinse newsletter. Unfortunately no more, but some of them are still posted on-line at Casual Elegance. Download them while you can.
Casual Elegance: Partners with Loes to sell her type of fabrics, plus notions and online seminars.
Threads Magazine: I haven't found these online (yet). The Threads website's search feature leaves a lot to be desired, IMO. Whatever. These articles by Loes appeared in past issues:
- July 1998, Number 77, "Sewing: Less is More," pp. 43-47
- August/September 2002, Number 102, "8 Ready-To-Wear Tricks for Making Modern Jackets," pp. 40-43
- January 2004, Number 110, "Designer Shopping Strategy: Buy Fabric in Groups of Three," pp. 42-45
Sunday, March 8, 2009
Yet Another Tango
I got all the Tango panels sewed together today with 1/4" seams. It was not easy, as I managed to sew bottoms to tops on several panels. PITA. I'll be doing a try on soon to see if 1/4" is needed for all seams before final stitching with the serger.
Even in spite of my sewing errors, this really is a simple skirt to make. Hopefully, the rayon I'm using is a good one; some of my other Tangos have met a premature death due to crappy fabric. I'm not sure if there's a fail-safe way to test beforehand.
Even in spite of my sewing errors, this really is a simple skirt to make. Hopefully, the rayon I'm using is a good one; some of my other Tangos have met a premature death due to crappy fabric. I'm not sure if there's a fail-safe way to test beforehand.
Saturday, March 7, 2009
Arrgghh!!!
Update: I found it! And the skirt pieces have been cut out. Hooray!!!
I decided that the Tango Skirt would be my next project, and now I can't find it!!! It has to be around here somewhere. How frustrating...
I decided that the Tango Skirt would be my next project, and now I can't find it!!! It has to be around here somewhere. How frustrating...
Friday, March 6, 2009
Thank you, Sewing Sisters!
Thanks to Ann of Gorgeous Fabrics and Linda of Danvillegirl Sewing Diary! I admire both of your blogs so much, and consider you friends and sisters in sewing.
Inevitably with these awards, there are tasks. And here they are for this award:
- Place the award logo on your blog. DONE
- Nominate 10 other blogs which show "Attitude and/or Gratitude" DONE
- Link to the nominees on your blog post. DONE
- Comment on their blog that you have nominated them. DONE
- Share the love and link to the person who nominated you. DONE
And now, here are my nominees.
- La Belette Rouge: Belette writes about writing, her adventures in LA, and her adorable pup, Lily. Often stream of consciousness, I've no doubt she has some books in her!
- Materfamilias Writes: Mater is a professor in BC who lives in a small coastal island. She knits, she writes, she has a lovely garden and family
- Miss Janey's Place: In a word, Miss Janey is hilarious. She is quite a storyteller.
- Passage des Perles: Duchesse is another Canadian, this time in Toronto. A sophisticate with exquisite taste in jewelry and wonderful observations on life.
- Une femme d'un Certain Age: Deja Pseu is a stylish, elegant Californian. She describes her blog best: "on living a stylish, adventurous, balanced, delicious life after 50." I appreciate her sensibilities.
- Cake Wrecks: This blog cracks me up on a daily basis. I am always amazed by the strange baked goods she manages to find.
- smitten kitchen: Mmmm, mmm! A glimpse into Manhattan life, and lovely recipes besides!
- A Dress A Day: Erin is a lexographer in addition to being a fan of all thing Dress, particularly vintage looks. Well written and witty.
- A Corgi House: Dr. Karen knits and sews when she's not busy practicing medicine.
- Behind the Seams: She's back! Gigi's a prolific sewer who lives in South Florida. I've been enjoying her take on sewing and life for quite some time.
I've mixed it up a little this time. I don't just follow sewing blogs, and all of the ladies mentioned above have informed my life in different ways. Keep on posting, please. And although I've posted the "rules", don't feel obligated to follow them. Pass this on or not as you see fit to do. My intent is to recognize, not to burden.
Tuesday, March 3, 2009
Pondering...
I just about always go through this stage after completing a project or two. It seems that it happens especially when the seasons are starting to change. The mantra what to make, what to make, what to make is rambling through my mind, and I just can't figure out what would satisfy me during this transitional time of year.
The problem isn't that I don't have any ideas, but there are too many, all crowding each other for consideration, and none of them get done as a result. So I'm trying to keep it narrowed down to just a few candidates:
Yet another Loes Hinse Tango Skirt. I've made this pattern a bunch of times, but it's a handy one. I wore my short one today since the weather was warm and was reminded again just how much I like this pattern. I even have fabric picked out, a rayon floral of orange and blue on a black background. It will go well with an orange tweed Talbot's jacket I got on clearance, then with other things into the warmer months. DONE, see 3/14/09 post
Mimosa Pants. This pattern won't yield as much immediate satisfaction, since it's a new one for me and I'll need to muslin it. However, it does hold promise as a future Tried-N-True pattern for classic pants.
Another version of Plaza Pants. I really liked the last pair I made, so that would be an easy project.
Pure and Simple Shell. This is a new pattern by Louise Cutting, and it's a simple yet cute design. This would also require some work to get ready (tracing and muslining), but also holds the promise of becoming a TNT. And I do have a lot of short fabric lengths that would make nice tops...
Of course, The Pile of fabric still beckons but I have to admit that I'm less enamored than I was when I put it all out. Probably because most of the fabrics are wintery. Perhaps it's time to lay out a new Pile for spring and pack the old Pile away for now.
The problem isn't that I don't have any ideas, but there are too many, all crowding each other for consideration, and none of them get done as a result. So I'm trying to keep it narrowed down to just a few candidates:
Yet another Loes Hinse Tango Skirt. I've made this pattern a bunch of times, but it's a handy one. I wore my short one today since the weather was warm and was reminded again just how much I like this pattern. I even have fabric picked out, a rayon floral of orange and blue on a black background. It will go well with an orange tweed Talbot's jacket I got on clearance, then with other things into the warmer months. DONE, see 3/14/09 post
Mimosa Pants. This pattern won't yield as much immediate satisfaction, since it's a new one for me and I'll need to muslin it. However, it does hold promise as a future Tried-N-True pattern for classic pants.
Another version of Plaza Pants. I really liked the last pair I made, so that would be an easy project.
Pure and Simple Shell. This is a new pattern by Louise Cutting, and it's a simple yet cute design. This would also require some work to get ready (tracing and muslining), but also holds the promise of becoming a TNT. And I do have a lot of short fabric lengths that would make nice tops...
Of course, The Pile of fabric still beckons but I have to admit that I'm less enamored than I was when I put it all out. Probably because most of the fabrics are wintery. Perhaps it's time to lay out a new Pile for spring and pack the old Pile away for now.
Monday, March 2, 2009
Housekeeping
I'll be doing some housekeeping on the site over the next few days, adding more descriptive tags and such. I realize it's a little bit of a pain if you follow SewWest on a feed like Bloglines, but ultimately, it'll be better all the way around.
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